• WTB / WTS / WTT ADS
    All Advertisements, including Want to Buy, Want to Sell, Want to Trade, Belong in the MARKETPLACE ONLY. Any new threads posted offering an item for sale, looking to trade or buy an item which are posted outside of Marketplace will be deleted without notice or warning. Existing threads will be moved to marketplace.
  • Marketplace Feedback Ratings
    The Marketplace feedback ratings system is now back. You can now leave feedback for your Buy / Sell / Trade transactions. Instructions on how to leave feedback ratings can be found HERE

WTK: Tightening rear block, on L1A1 lower?

The Chief

Farkën Snêekee Bastïtch
Silver Contributor
FALaholic #
76457
Joined
Aug 28, 2015
Posts
3,776
Location
S. Louisiana
Feedback: 725 / 0 / 0
Anyone experience a Brit L1A1 lower where the rear block 'wobbles' in the body? What the best fix for this, and does anyone do that operation with success?

I know it has to do with squeezing the (4) extrusions, but I don't wanna booger this thing up doing it the wrong way...

Any assist appreciated...
 

The Chief

Farkën Snêekee Bastïtch
Silver Contributor
FALaholic #
76457
Joined
Aug 28, 2015
Posts
3,776
Location
S. Louisiana
Feedback: 725 / 0 / 0
I know there are Brit lowers that have the cross body pin staked on them which I would assume is a fix for what you are explaining.

No sir, I'm referring to the (4) extrusions that hold the rear block into the heavy, U-shaped sheet metal body. I've seen peen marks at those for points on numerous Brit lowers. The lower in question has not had this repair done, and the block wobbles slightly... gives the impression the stock tube is loose, but it's really the solid block fitted on the aft end of the lower body.
 

4markk

Military Observer
Gold Contributor
FALaholic #
31134
Joined
Aug 16, 2007
Posts
5,823
Location
Army of Occupation of Northern Virginia
Feedback: 279 / 0 / 0
Good question. I've had both pieces in the raw in the past. I'll look for pictures, but IIRC those are about 1/4" pins that go through and are peened. Technically you could pound out the old and replace with new (oversized if necessary). I would assume, not a project for the faint at heart.
 

FUUN063

Well-known member
FALaholic #
35576
Joined
Apr 16, 2008
Posts
7,429
Location
Converse, Indiana
Feedback: 509 / 0 / 0
Hmmm, maybe try this: Super clean the stripped lower. This entails heating until all the oil/grease/cosmo/astro glide/etc. are heated to a point that they wick out. I use an old oven in my shop for this, the same process I use to parkerize lowers without weeping oils to ruin a good park job. Once that's done and it's cool, take the stripped lower and put it upside down. Place a clamp at the rear, aft end and squeeze it fully together as you want it. Remove the finish on the bottom on each side where the frame piece (bent U shaped metal) meets up with the recoil tube block. Then, TIG weld a short section from the bottom corner inward and do the other side. If you bevel this slightly just prior to welding and use filler metal, then you can sand the welds down, refinish and it should look real good (hopefully). I would much rather do this than peen the outside of the housing body retaining pins as was customary back in the day. I would also do this procedure instead of brazing or silver soldering as that stuff don't parkerize.

Leland
 
Top