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When not in use: Do you take the trigger housing out of your M1/M-14?

Jarhead504

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The thread below on replacing op-rods springs on the M1 got me to askThe Class: Do you take the trigger housing out of your rifle whilst it is in storage (your safe, etc.)? I remember reading years ago that Sprinfield Armory, Inc. of Geneseo, IL recommended UNLATCHING the trigger housing when not using it with the purpose of keeping the housing from constantly "compressing" the wood stock at those points of contact. I do not know of anyone who has ever done this. One DISADVANTAGE is it leaves the hammer spring COCKED and I was taught as young pup not to store guns cocked.

Another question for yall: Should you remove the op-rod spring too? I was told that leaving the op-rod springs in M-14 clones "weakens" or "sets" them to its restricted compressed length over time. Is this true? I've never seen anything to prove this.

I have never stored mine with the op-rod out OR unlatching the trigger housing. I would think that using them to reciprocate the moving parts may put more wear and tear on a spring, but how many rounds would this take? How often did military armorers change the springs?

TIA,
Jarhead
 

Trooper894

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My M1's and my NM M1A in a glass bedded wood stock, the trigger guard is unlatched. On my standard M1A in a GI surplus fiberglass stock, the trigger guard stays locked. None of my bolts are stored locked open, so the op-rod spring will be under minimal tension.
 

Non conformist

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I leave my Garand TG's locked to prevent wear on the trunnions as much as possible.
I tried storing my M1a NM locked and unlocked and didn't see where it made any noticeable difference.
As for storing springs it doesn't matter whether they are under full load, partial load or completely unloaded it ain't gonna shorten or prolong it's life.
As I said in the other thread, provided it's made to the prescribed specs from good quality material, wear/fatigue from working the spring, excessive heat and corrosion are what ultimately leads to it's failure.
 
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meltblown

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More guns are damaged by overzealous cleaning than by not cleaning.
I don't think it really hurts them to get a bore snake and wiping down. I've got an X39 that eats comboc ammo only that I gave a torture test using a can for the last 7 years. Took it out a couple of months back and so filthy that the bolt/carrier was gummed up. Pulled it and got it running then came home and it was like cleaning the brake pads and rotor on a change out. Hands, towel, and everything was black.
 

Invictus77

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More guns are damaged by overzealous cleaning than by not cleaning.
Yanno, I've heard this stated for decades.

I still struggle on how a few swipes with an aluminum (or even a mild steel) cleaning rod at maybe 100 ft/min can wear out a barrel more a couple thousand rounds of superheated, copper plated bullets traveling down that barrel at 2,800 ft/sec ????
 

Non conformist

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Yanno, I've heard this stated for decades.

I still struggle on how a few swipes with an aluminum (or even a mild steel) cleaning rod at maybe 100 ft/min can wear out a barrel more a couple thousand rounds of superheated, copper plated bullets traveling down that barrel at 2,800 ft/sec ????
.
Ive always heard those jointed steel cleaning rods and careless cleaning techniques were the culprit.
I have an ex Indian No.4T that has a noticeable groove the exact size of a steel cleaning rod worn it the bore at the muzzle end undoubtedly caused ham fisted mud chickens running a cleaning rod in and out like they was plunging a toilet . It makes the muzzle look more like an oval rather than the usual Enfield pentagonal shape.
Apparently muzzle wear isn't as detrimental to accuracy as it's accused of being as the rifle is still capable of shooting consistent 1" 5 shot groups at 100 yds.
 

meltblown

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.
Ive always heard those jointed steel cleaning rods and careless cleaning techniques were the culprit.
I have an ex Indian No.4T that has a noticeable groove the exact size of a steel cleaning rod worn it the bore at the muzzle end undoubtedly caused ham fisted mud chickens running a cleaning rod in and out like they was plunging a toilet . It makes the muzzle look more like an oval rather than the usual Enfield pentagonal shape.
Apparently muzzle wear isn't as detrimental to accuracy as it's accused of being as the rifle is still capable of shooting consistent 1" 5 shot groups at 100 yds.
Pics or it doesn't happen.
 

Non conformist

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Pics or it doesn't happen.
Elongated bore with no rifling visible at 12 o'clock, (this would be the top of the bore when looking through the scope)...
IMG_20230709_220327429.jpg
Screenshot_20230709-221509.png

Rifling visible at roughly 5 and 7 o'clock...
IMG_20230709_220451248.jpg

The bullet test...
IMG_20230709_221141706.jpg
IMG_20230709_221129946.jpg

A '42 Savage No.4T showing visibly rifling at 12 o'clock and the bullet test...
IMG_20230709_221301802.jpg
IMG_20230709_221329607.jpg
 
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GSO

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Elongated bore with no rifling visible at 12 o'clock, (this would be the top of the bore when looking through the scope)...

Rifling visible at roughly 5 and 7 o'clock...

The bullet test...

A '42 Savage No.4T showing visibly rifling at 12 o'clock and the bullet test...
That is an impressive amount of wear!

And yes, I've heard the same thing about the jointed rods and cleaning from the muzzle rather than the breech.
 

Impala_Guy

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Anybody with a worked over match rifle may do it for that last once of consistency but I don't worry about it. I've owned over 20 Garands since the early 90s and handled 10-15X that number of rifles from friends, browsing at gun shows etc. I can count on one hand the number of stocks where the wood was to the point that closing the trigger guard required little compressive force. And those stock on those guns looked like they had been through two wars and been dropped in the ocean several times.

Besides, the little tiny latch on the milled trigger guard does wear with lots of repeated snaps and its just not worth it. Lets put it this way...that last gun you just picked up off GB or at the show that you are now fretting about has probably had its trigger guard latched since 1955.
 

SWOHFAL

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Yanno, I've heard this stated for decades.

I still struggle on how a few swipes with an aluminum (or even a mild steel) cleaning rod at maybe 100 ft/min can wear out a barrel more a couple thousand rounds of superheated, copper plated bullets traveling down that barrel at 2,800 ft/sec ????
Aluminum oxidizes to aluminum oxide - i.e., sandpaper. No way would I ever use an aluminum rod on my guns.
 

lew

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I leave the trigger groups latched. Not going to matter on a fiberglass stocks, and I can shim my well-used beech stock if it needs it after decades of use.
 

Jarhead504

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Lets put it this way...that last gun you just picked up off GB or at the show that you are now fretting about has probably had its trigger guard latched since 1955.
'scu me, 'scu me Brother Impala Guy, but I'm not frettin', just askin' and verifying 'cuz the EARLY Springfield Armory Inc. of Geneseo, IL stated to leave the trigger guard unlatched whilst the rifle was in storage, but I've never done that over the last 44 years.

Jarhead
 

CTW

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My M1’s that I shoot in CMP matches I unlatch the trigger housings. When I took the maintenance class at CMP the custom shop lead armor advised to do it, so I do. All the other M1’s I own I do not. Just the 2 I use for competition that have new stocks.
 
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