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SUIT Trilux scope, tritium re-animation!!

johnnycobra

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So I saw earlier that 3X10 or 2X10 red or green is optimal.

Looks like this guy is offering 1.55X5 in all colors and 2x8 in green only.

What are you guys buying?

I was wanting to find a red and green in 2x10 and put one of each in the plug. Looks like this won't happen with what is being offered.

Opinions?
 

Steelcore_7.62

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johnnycobra said:
So I saw earlier that 3X10 or 2X10 red or green is optimal.

Looks like this guy is offering 1.55X5 in all colors and 2x8 in green only.

What are you guys buying?

I was wanting to find a red and green in 2x10 and put one of each in the plug. Looks like this won't happen with what is being offered.

Opinions?
I bought the 2X8s. Should be fine for the task. 10mm is maybe a bit longer than really necessary?

Cheers,
Darrell
 

rwwje

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Having used red, orange, and green; my choice is red. Red vials are the best color match the one orginal "red-orange" tritium illuminator "bulb" (looks like a micro light bulb) that I have that is still glowing at about 50% of original brightness - just barely below what I would consider for field use. Green is great for handgun sights that you are holding two feet from your face. But, the red is subdued compared to green, with the green really being too bright for tactical use as per my night hog hunting experience. All you need to do is see the aiming pointer, and green is so bright that is causes washout of the target in very low light conditions. The pointer is visible in any light conditions that are "brighter" than what red vials provide. My strong recommendation is to use red vials, not green vials. There is a reason that the S.U.I.T. did not use green vials ("bulbs"). Please don't think that green vials were not available at the time. It's a washout issue...............:D
 

Steelcore_7.62

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I thought the whole idea behind the "Rheostat" type of system on the SUIT is to be able to adjust the amount of illumination by turning the knob. Are you saying that in any position, there will be washout?

I steered clear of the red vials due to the low level of output.

Cheers,
Darrell
 

rwwje

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Steelcore_7.62 said:
I thought the whole idea behind the "Rheostat" type of system on the SUIT is to be able to adjust the amount of illumination by turning the knob. Are you saying that in any position, there will be washout?

I steered clear of the red vials due to the low level of output.

Cheers,
Darrell

I've never used a red LED rheostat controled illuminator. Since such illuminators are adjustable, I see no reason to suffer washout. It's just the green tritium vials are to bright in very low light conditions and "blind" you (me, anyway) since the light source is "between" your eye and the image.
 

sfbadger

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Speedfish said:
Hello,

I couldn't find any Mr Putty white putty. Will Bondo glazing and spot putty work?

Thanks,
I just finished 3 SUIT scopes and I used white wall spackle to set the vials in the scopes vial holder. It dries hard but is water soluble so it's easy to work with and clean up is a breeze.

I installed 2 - 2x8mm Green Tritium vials in each but to make 2 vials fit properly I had to Dremel a little aluminum from the scopes vial holder. At first I tried to make 2 vials fit without the Dremel work and that caused 1 vial to stick up just a little which caused 1 to crack when I installed the holder. Have to Dremel a little to make 2 of those vials fit flush.
 

crsswift70

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Do you think the spackle might become brittle over time or start breaking up and falling out of the plug? I am planning on doing mine this weekend but am unsure of what i am going to use.
 

sfbadger

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I don't think there will be any problem with the spackle because it doesn't seem to crack and fall off of any walls that I've ever done, as long as moisture doesn't get to it, which I don't foresee happening. If it was to happen then the spackle is easily removed with a water soaking and I could try something else. My first thought was to use something silicon based, though.
 

rwwje

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I've removed three original tritium illuminiators, and the mounting compound appeared to "sheet- rock mud". It looked and behaved the same as sheet-rock mud, since water softened and "dissolved" it. It was not a solvent based or cured product. But, most anything would work, but only sheet-rock mud type products would allow for easy removal and replacement of tritium illuminators. Please note that all the OEM tritium illuminators (shaped like a mini-light bulb) all had a thin white paint covering the "bulb" except where the "bulb" was exposed to provide illumination. I've only used plumbers putty to mount new illuminators, but that is probably not permanent/adequate enough for severe service.
 

Steelcore_7.62

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rwwje said:



I've never used a red LED rheostat controled illuminator. Since such illuminators are adjustable, I see no reason to suffer washout. It's just the green tritium vials are to bright in very low light conditions and "blind" you (me, anyway) since the light source is "between" your eye and the image.
rwwje, I think you missed my point. I was saying that since the tritium source can be rotated closer and further from the reticle post that the amount of illumination should be variable like a "rheostat". The SUIT I have has less than 50% left and I could still see it fade in and out when I rotated the holder. My experience is limited to this; so please let me know if the illumination from my replacements will be all or none as I still can get red ones if I need them.

Cheers,
Darrell
 

crsswift70

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The tritium insert was designed to do that. I don't know how the green would be any different than the red in that respect. You could turn it way down by turning the insert.
 

sfbadger

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crsswift70 said:
The tritium insert was designed to do that. I don't know how the green would be any different than the red in that respect. You could turn it way down by turning the insert.
This is slightly off topic but noteable.

If you check out the link below you'll be sent to Bart's page with the Tritium vials that I recently used. One of the links on his page has a chart that rates luminosity by color. Green is at the top with 90% luminosity. Red is somewhere down around 40%. I guess my point is that if you're going to use Red Tritium vials, you're going to view a dimmer reticle. At least that was my take using his luminosity chart.

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sh...ad.php?t=137473
 
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rwwje

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Point taken on fine tuning (turning) the illuminator as I have also done that with both red and green. Also, I agree that the green should provide a longer usable life, as it would maintain a usable brightness level longer (since it is IMHO "over-bright" to start with). I have just found that for me, the green is not best color illuminator. In addition, I have found I can see better with conventional red adjustable battery illuminated reticle scopes than with green ones. I think it's due to the human eye's response to the two colors (red has long been held to least affect your night or low light vision). But, maybe it's just me. Please note that I do use green handgun night sights, but I think that is an apples/oranges comparison and doesn't apply to scopes. :biggrin:
 

Psychomonkey

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Tritium replacement

Hi,

I recently bought a SUIT and it has no plug in place. I have read this thread and am looking to make a new plug. I don't have anything to work from. I have access to a lathe, and a Bridgeport mill so I can make the plug if I had a diagram. If someone has a diagram or detailed measurements I would really appreciate it.


Thanks,


John
 

brownknees

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FWIW the ambient light color has a bearing on what color to use.
I have made these in green & in yellow.
If you're under scatter from gas discharge street lamps the "yellow" your eye sees will blend with the yellow or amber tip & make it harder to see. In this case green shows up because of clolor contrast.
Amber/yellow works very well under moonlight & so on, so that'd be the first choice for areas not lit by those lamps.

I ended up making a dual-color one:biggrin: 1/4 turn lit or darkened the reticule tip 1/2 turn brought the other color into play.
For this to work the vials HAVE to go across the narrow dimension of the cutout, or you'll get "bleed" at all positions of the knob.

Psychomonkey
If only you'd asked me that yesterday, the CD is on it's way to you already.
Let me have an e-mail addy & I'll send you a bunch of plug dimension drawings.
 
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