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FAL Israel - Install Gas Block

hkshooter

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Nice tutorial. And explains why I won't install my own. I have no way to mill a flat spot on the barrel so I can drill the pin hole. The risk of fking it up and trashing both parts is way too high and not worth the gamble. Maybe someday I'll have at least a drill press and a small mill vice.
 

gunplumber

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Great video! But point of fact, early in the video you speak of level when you should be talking about plumb.

How do you know your level is accurate?
Probably, and I said intermittent instead of intermediate. Somehow when the camera is on I get flustered and call ejectors extractors and what not - I don't know yet how to do text corrections or voice overs in WMM.

Level is accurate because I reverse it and get the same reading.
 

Invictus77

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Good video and thanks. I am curious why you did not go ahead and finish drill the holes when it was already in the mill, but chose the cordless drill instead. Is there a technical reason I am missing, or just for ease and habit?
 

gunplumber

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Good video and thanks. I am curious why you did not go ahead and finish drill the holes when it was already in the mill, but chose the cordless drill instead. Is there a technical reason I am missing, or just for ease and habit?
Good question - it kindof falls in the same area as using a hammer instead of a hydraulic press for locking shoulders. It lets me "feel" if something is out of the ordinary. Mechanically forcing something removes that "hmm . . . this doesn't feel right".

When everything is locked in for mechanical action, I have no "feel" in equation. Lets say that the gas block is just a hair off from being perpendicular in the mill. Using the mill with a cobalt bit to finish drill the hole to size, I'll end up with an oval hole on the opposite side. Because the downfeed doesn't care if it's misaligned.

Using a hand drill, there is enough built in flexibility that the bit will seek the path of least resistance and find it's happy spot.

Also - virgin gas blocks were drilled after mounting to the barrel, and sometimes the original hole is not perfectly aligned on all three axis. This is demonstrated by trying to mount a gas block from one barrel to another. Sometimes the holes align with the slots, and sometimes not. L1A1 barrels with their tapered retainin pin are worse.

Drilling from both sides with some flex will match the barrel grooves to wherever the original holes are in the gas block. I can solder barrel grooves if needed, and redrill, but I have not been successful in welding up oversize retaining pin holes in the gas block. Too much very thin material around the hole. I'm a competent TIG welder, but not nearly good enough to avoid collapsing everything around the hole into the puddle.

So I am very careful that whatever I do, I don't enlarge the gas block hole. Now of course, there is option of using an oversize gas block retainin pin, but it becomes challenging because there are few readily available pin sizes that are larger, without being so large that they break through to the gas regulator spring slots.
 
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Invictus77

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I have an Izzy LB kit, a new DSA Izzy engraved receiver, and a new DSA Izzy barrel sitting here now I'm debating with myself on whether to build or sell. The snag is not the build, but all my safes are full, so I would need to buy another safe and rearrange some things, which I am afraid will make Blondzilla's head spin around :eek:

Your info is much appreciated Mark if I do decide to screw this puppy together. There are usually some good Black Friday buys on gun safes, if she will let me put another one in the house ;)
 

Jaxxas

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Probably, and I said intermittent instead of intermediate. Somehow when the camera is on I get flustered and call ejectors extractors and what not - I don't know yet how to do text corrections or voice overs in WMM.

Level is accurate because I reverse it and get the same reading.

I'm a lot worse than that! I talk too fast and it sounds like I have a mouthful of marbles and with my suspected ADD I jump to whatever topic comes up in my head.

As I said, your video was quite good. Plumb vs level has been a pet topic of mine ever since I played as an electrician for a year or so when I was younger. I only posted the link on how to check your level because I have ran into so many people who have no clue if their level is accurate, sometimes with quite humorous results. Not usually a big deal in electrical work but can potentially get quite messy with plumbing.
 

gunplumber

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I only posted the link on how to check your level because I have ran into so many people who have no clue if their level is accurate
I do have more accurate levels, but I only use them when truing the machines. Or "attempting" to true them, as I still have a lot to learn.


IMG_0511.JPG IMG_0512.JPG
 

Jeff in Pa

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Thanks for the video, lots of good info in there. If you have a #23 drill, that measures .154 that would give you a -.002 for the press fit on the gas block. ( also, .098 = 2.5 mm )

Pointing up to the dual indicator set up for tramming a Bridgeport head, I have always done it with an indicator in a collet or drill chuck. Small adjustments makes it easy.
Jeff
 
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